The adventures of the day began as I checked out of my hotel in Istanbul. I gave the clerk my credit card, punched in my PIN and all was well until he told me that I had already paid for the room (have no idea when I might have done that) so he had to remove that charge. Eventually, after changing some money to Turkish Lire, he called me a cab and I was on my way (or so I thought). It was only a short run to the airport (nine km) but when we arrived it quickly became apparent that the driver didn't understand "domestic" when I told him where I wanted to go. After I repeated it several times and showed him my ticket he stopped and asked someone who didn't seem to understand either. I was about to get out and try to find my own way but he got me to stay and we took off again. This time around I pointed at the signs as we approached them and we finally got to the right place.
The entrance to the airpport was another surprise. Naturally I was looking for the Turkish Airlines ticket counter but all I saw was security screening lines. Ok, so they do things differently here and you have to go through security first. Fits with the well armed police outside the building. On I go through the procedure. Since I wasn't expecting it I wasn't really ready and had all kinds of stuff in my pockets. Luckily there wasn't anyone behind me. It was a bit of a shock when I had to remove my belt and put it in the tray. Walking through holding my shorts up with one hand all I could do was pray that they stayed up. They did.
Once through security it was no problem finding the airline counter but there were so many options that I had no idea where to go. I asked for help and was directed to the right place. No problem with the check in and the line was short. It took a bit of repeating and gesticulating to get the idea of wheelchair across to the agent. Because the airport appeared fairly small at that point I almost decided to try and walk. Good thing I didn't! When my chair arrived after a ten minute wait the guy moved me out and, wonder of wonders, what did appear but another security screening area. Of course I had refilled my pockets thinking I was finished with that aspect so had to go through the whole thing once more. Meanwhile I am dripping sweat and my shirt is soaked through.
Out of security and my "driver" dumped me off at some chairs and told me to wait. (Slight deviation here as I listen to the Muslim "call to prayer". It is nearly sunset (7:15) so those observing Ramadan will soon be able to eat.) Back to the airport where, after another fifteen minutes I was again thinking about trying to walk. My "driver" showed up again, took me another few yards to another group of chairs, dropped me off and told me to wait. This time I thought I was closer to the gate but he assured me he would return. He did. This time it was a very long trek, down a floor or two and outside. Like Yellowknife I assumed I was headed for the plane but wondered why I hadn't gone past the gate. We pulled up behind a strange looking truck and my chair was wheeled onto a back panel and lifted into the back of the truck. My chair was then attached to the wall of the truck by some means I could not see. We drove so far I was beginning to fear I was being hijacked. When we stopped close to a plane I was ready to get out and board but the back gate remained closed. Soon the entire truck rose to the level of the door of the plane and, after the driver knocked, I was wheeled right to it. Amazing.
The one hour flight to Neveshir was pleasant and uneventful accompanied by a goat cheese and tomato submarine sandwhich. After yeasterday's marathon flight this one was a piece of cake. The airport here looked about the size of the Yellowknife airport and we weren't parked too far away so I was prepared to make the walk but, lo and behold, there was a chair waiting for me. It took what seemed like a very long time for my suitcase to arrive and, of course, I began to wonder if it had been misplaced. Thankfully it had not.
Another aside: It got too dark to type outside so I carried my laptop back inside and, in the process, tripped over the ancient firepit in the middle of the floor. As I was stumbling I had visions of smashing the computer and crashing my head into the sandstone rock wall of the room. Luckily neither transpired.
Once I had my luggage it was a simple matter to find Omer my guide and my driver (didn't catgch his name). After having a smoke (Omer smokes too) we headed off to Goreme and the "Open Air Museum" in our Mercedes van. Why it is called an open air museum is beyond me. One of the cave dwellings was for male students another for female though, legend has it that there was a tunnel bewteen them. We went into one of the chrches and observed wall frescoes dating back to the 700's. I was too tired and too hot to visit more than one of the seven churches there (not that churches interest me all that much in any event).
From Goreme we travelled a short distance to Urgup where we had lunch in a cave restaurant. This one was huge and beautiful. All of the tables sat at least eight. The walls were carved out of the sandstone and decorated with carvings and paintings. A musician played a sitar-like instrument and it was very well done. We started with a vegetable soup, followed by a bean soup and then beef kabaps. The kabaps were not the kabobs as I know them but rather like a beef stew with potatoes, turnip and mushrooms cooked in a pottery vessel which is sealed and then broken open at the table. It was all very good but, unfortunately, I was too hot, too tired and not hungry enough to truly enjoy it. I couldn't even ponder dessert. Another day perhaps.
After lunch we set off to Pasabaglari to view the world famous "fairy chimneys". The are remnants of the volcano eruptions some ten million years ago. Over time they have eroded so that the tops are basalt, followed by a layer of sandstone and then another layer of basalt. Legend also has it that they were built by space invaders.... Photos to follow as soon as I can get them uploaded.
From there we set out to Avanos where I was treated to a pottery demonstration. Hasan, one of the family that has been there for more than two hundred years, provided quite a commentary and then did a masterful selling job trying to get me to buy something. When I heard the price for the best of the wares I decided it was more than I wanted to spend just now, beautiful though they are. I actually did want to buy a Hittite style wine jug but 1,100 Turkish Lire ($800 CDN) it seemed rather steep.
After the pottery we stopped and I bought a fishing line (although the owner wanted to sell me a rod and reel) and then some raki. By then I was exhausted and asked Omer to end the tour for today and take me to the hotel in Urgup. All that I missed was the "Devrent Imagination Valley but I will see that from the balloon tomorrow morning.
When I got to my room I collapsed on the bed and rested/napped for two hours awaking feeling somewhat more human. My room is rather rustic with no television or radio, no mini bar, etc.but is quite comfortable. The walls are all sandstone and the floor parquet. As mentioned earlier the old firepit is in the middle of the floor and another fireplace type thing is on one of the walls. Lighting is not great but adequate and there are not bats hanging from the ceiling (no Robin or batmobile in evidence either).