September 9 Sanliurfa

Finally a hotel that meets all of my criteria! Ok, they don't have Kleenex but I can live without that for a day or so. lol This is reportedly the hottest place in the country and I can certainly attest to the fact that it felt like it today. It was the hottest place I have ever been with the temperature around 40 C. Absolutely brutal. I gave up about 2:30, came back and napped and then went out later (6:00) when it had cooled off a touch. More on tonight later.

When I sat down for breakfast this morning I was the only guest but from the spread placed in front of me you would have thought I was a party of four at least. It took up the space of half of a normal kitchen table. As best I can remember there was: museli, granola, raisins, bread, cheese, cucumbers, tomatoes, two kinds of honey, two kinds of biscuits, olives. I think there was more.... I could get to enjoy breakfast at this rate.

Our first visit after a two and a half hour drive was in Harran where we saw the "beehive" houses (see the photos). These houses are supposedly cool in summer and warm in winter but I must admit that I didn't find them all that cool today. When I said to Omer that in North America the owners of the cafes/attractions would never come and sit and talk with you his response was that it is considered rude here for the owner not to do so. A great tradition I think. We sat awhile and Omer had tea and then we took a brief walk through one of the houses looking at fancy clothing and decorations used for weddings. Very ornate and interesting. There are also ruins of a 3,000 year old university there.

On the way to Sanliurfa we crossed the Euphrates River of biblical fame. As soon as we had checked into the hotel we headed out for lunch. Because of Ramadan we had to eat inside because they did not want to serve outside in front of people who were fasting. I had a good dish of fried chicken, tomatoes and onions. It was supposed to be chicken and mushrooms but they had no mushrooms today. Of course it was the mushrooms that tempted me to order it in the first place. For the first time the bread was a flat tortilla type (but much much thinner than tortillas) but that did not deter Omer and Mehmet from digging in with gusto along with their shiskabaps. After a big breakfast and in the heat I didn't eat much of my meal but at less than $6.00 CDN that was ok.

After lunch they tried to convince me to go to visit the fish lake (fish farm) which was associated with Abraham but when I looked at how far it was and how affected I was by the heat I decided I didn't need to see it. Once you have seen fish feeding frenzies when you toss food in you have pretty much seen it all. I wanted to walk through the bazaar but it was just too hot and my back and legs wouldn't let me do it.

At 5:00 Omer called me and asked if I wanted to go out to the bazaar. I said I would meet him in an hour. After I hung up I debated calling him back and canceling but decided I would give it a try and see how far I could get. Glad I did because I had a very enjoyable time tonight. We walked a bit, then sat and rested before walking some more. I found the many shops very interesting. We stopped at a couple of spice shops and I bought the two spices (sumac and isot - bbq spice) that I had been looking for on the recommendation of my travel agent. I tried another spice that Omer said was mild but I could feel it on my tongue for an hour afterward. Didn't buy any of that one. We stopped at a cafe in the bazaar and Omer and Mehmet had dinner. I was not hungry. Still I received tea and a yoghurt/water drink which was really refreshing. They had barbecued lamb liver with sumac in the same bread we had had at lunch. If I had been hungry I would have liked to have some too as the piece I tasted was very good.

From there we proceeded to a Nargile (hookah water pipe) cafe where Omer and I shared a pipe with apple flavoured tobacco. It was very tasty but so mild that I received no satisfaction from it. One pipe lasts about two hours but we left after an hour or so and made our way back to the hotel. I might just have to buy one of the pipes to take home as a souvenir if I can think of a way to carry it. But then I would also have to buy tobacco and charcoal coals to use it unles sit was just going to sit around and gather dust.

There have been torrential rains and floods in Istanbul and I can only hope that my hotel and plans for there are not too badly affected. They received more than six months amount of rain in just two days. Scary.

I hear that kissing has been banned in some places (Paris) because of swine flu... Some men here do the kissing on the cheek greeting with both men and women but i have not encountered that personally yet. Many people ask questions about me to Omer - where i am from, why I am not fasting, if I am married, how many children I have, etc. Curious people.

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